Bespoke Jewellery

Place Vendôme, Paris: an arcaded façade under restoration, its openings shored with timber cross-bracing behind site hoarding

Hugo Cahill is a house of collections.

Occasionally a conversation produces something that does not yet exist. What follows is a record of four such pieces — each conceived once, and made once.

A small number of commissions are undertaken. How one proceeds is set out at the end of this page.

Helen Orbit Ring: a rose-cut diamond held in a platinum collet within a gold torus, a twist of brilliant-cut diamonds following the band
2021

Helen Orbit Ring

For a name, and the person who carried it

A gold torus holding a rose-cut diamond in a bespoke platinum collet, the white metal chosen to lift the whiteness of the stone against the gold. A twisting line of brilliant-cut diamonds follows the curvature of the band.

The diamond was specified H in colour. Nothing else on the ring carries the name.

In detail
Ruby Wedding Bands: two gold bands set with portrait-cut Burmese rubies, one edged with brilliant-cut diamonds, both engraved inside in Roman numerals
2023

Ruby Wedding Bands

A pair, engraved within

Portrait-cut Burmese rubies, flat-surfaced so that depth of colour carries the composition rather than faceted brilliance. The stones were cut by a master lapidary in Portugal; the diamonds acquired in Antwerp.

Two interpretations of one idea. One band runs brilliant-cut diamonds along both laterals; the other is left to its polished gold rails alone. Both are engraved inside, in Roman numerals, with the date.

In detail
Eternal Unity Ring: a hexagonal onyx set into a square face of beige gold over sterling silver, encircled by six diamonds
2024

Eternal Unity Ring

One number, repeated

A hexagon of onyx at the centre, six diamonds set around it: a closed figure with no beginning and no end.

A prism of beige gold laid over sterling silver, nineteen millimetres square, finished to a mirror polish so that the black of the stone has nowhere to hide.

In detail
Hippasos Bloom Necklace: a continuous rose gold blossom with palladium white gold accents and a central brilliant-cut diamond
2024

Hippasos Bloom Necklace

Made to mark an occasion

A fluid blossom in rose gold, worked as one continuous surface that favours movement over symmetry. Three accents in palladium white gold punctuate the body, and the chain clip is built into the structure rather than added to it.

At the centre, a diamond of notable scale, chosen in proportion to the engagement ring already on the wearer’s hand.

In detail

How a commission proceeds

Conversation first, precision after. Each piece is shaped to the wearer, conceived once, and made once.

A pair of amethyst and diamond earrings, one still held in setter’s cement on the bench, the other finished
  1. Consultation

    A private exchange to define intention, scale, and the desired presence of the work.

  2. Design development

    Proportion studies and compositional direction, refined until the architecture is resolved.

  3. Gemstone selection

    Stones are chosen for character, optics, and chromatic depth. Bespoke cutting is considered when required.

  4. Making and finishing

    The work is crafted and finished with close attention to surface, touch, and light behaviour.

  5. Presentation and aftercare

    The piece is delivered with guidance on wearing, care, and long term stewardship.

Enquiry

If you have something in mind, write with the essentials: the occasion, the person it is for, and the timeframe you are working to.

A reply is usually sent within two working days. You may also write directly to hello@hugocahill.com.